Pilgrimage_Mountain

When I was growing up in Co. Clare in the West of Ireland, one of the highlights of the year was to make the pilgrimage to Croagh Patrick. We always left home in the evening, arriving in Westport at about 11 o’clock from where we would set off for the "Reek". Around midnight we would begin the ascent, usually in the rain, making the different rounds, saying the prayers, and going to Mass on the mountain top in the morning before coming back down.

I went again with a young German visitor in the summer of 1997 and for the first time in my life I understood what this pilgrimage is really about. We decided to make it in the traditional way at night. The darkness and the dark side were always recognised as important and walking in the dark was a significant experience.

The path up the Reek is rough. There are many stones and you have to pick your steps with great care in the dark. We decided we wouldn't use any artificial light on the journey.

When we came to the statue of St. Patrick at the foot of the mountain we made sure to do the rounds and say the prayers. A round is a very important movement because it includes everything, taking in the four directions and every step in a circular way. Seven rounds are recommended because seven is a sacred number. It represents the completion of the cycle. The recommended prayers are an Our Father, a Hail Mary and a Glory be to the Father in every round. However, more important than the prayer is an awareness of what you are doing, gathering together your whole life's journey in a circular movement.

The night was dark and we went on slowly. There were lots of people on the journey and I was pleased to see so many making the pilgrimage in the traditional way. The annual pilgrimage on the last Sunday of July has been changed to daytime now and the majority of people seem to prefer this arrangement.

When we came to the saddle, which is the fairly flat area between the first long, steep climb and the summit, the moon came out. In that lovely natural light we set out on the final part of the climb which is very steep and testing. The stones underfoot are inclined to slip away which makes climbing very difficult. This represents the challenge of getting to the sacred summit of anything. It is never easy to make that journey. On this part of the mountain you have to go slowly and laboriously making sure you keep going because you want to get to the top.

It was a dry night but cloudy and quite cool. I found it really good to make the 15 rounds of the church on top of the mountain. I was thinking of the mysteries of our faith as expressed in the Rosary, which are the very heart of Christian belief. Doing the rounds in the presence of other people is very powerful especially when some of them are walking barefoot. I used to do the pilgrimage in my bare feet when I was young but this time I kept the boots on.

After our rounds we sat in the shelter of the church for some time. It was still dark. I noticed that the church, which could accommodate up to 100 people, was shut. I thought it was a pity and a lost opportunity. A notice on the door said there would be Mass at 8 o'clock. In some ways the Church misses important moments like this. For those making the journey up the mountain that night the pilgrimage was everything and didn't have to be brought to a conclusion with the Mass. It would have been helpful, however if the church had been opened to give them shelter.

Daybreak was a special moment on pinnacle of the mountain. We were there as darkness was dispelled and a new day was breaking. An Old Irish prayer came to mind:
"Praise to you, Lord God, you have brought me free once again from the night, with my people, and given me sight once again."

The mist was still on top of the mountain and we couldn't see very far. However, on the way down, we were able to get a great view of the islands in Clew Bay and the surrounding countryside. It was a good feeling to be coming down with the new day breaking.

We felt satisfied that we had done it the traditional way. We had gone up in darkness, come to the summit, completed our prayers and rounds and waited for the daybreak before coming back down.

Croagh Patrick is a very special place. The pilgrimage goes back to pre-Christian times when the festival of Lughnasa or harvest festival was celebrated. There is something unique about the shape of this holy mountain, which attracts people. It seems to invite them to climb it. Jesus used to go up mountains because he liked to pray there. When people make the journey to Croagh Patrick they confront the darkness and open dark places within themselves and commit themselves to the light. In this way they meet God.

Michael Rodgers S.P.S. is co-author of
"Glendalough - A Celtic Pilgrimage"
(Columba Press 1997).